Barely a couple of kilometres of cliff tops and parched grassland separate Anjuna from the southern fringes of its nearest neighbour, Vagator. A desultory collection of ramshackle farmhouses and picturesque old Portuguese bungalows scattered around a network of leafy lanes, the village is entered at the east via a branch off the Mapusa Road, which passes a few small guesthouses and restaurants before running down to the sea.

Dominated by the red ramparts of Chapora Fort, Vagator's broad white sandy beach - Big Vagator Beach also known, as "Little Vagator" is undeniably beautiful, just like a picture postcard.

For better, then, to head to the next cove south. Backed by a steep wall of crumbling palm-fringed laterite, Ozran Vagator beach is more secluded and much less accessible than either of its neighbours. To get there, walk ten minutes from Big Vagator, or drive to the end of the lane off the main Chapora-Anjuna Road, from where a footpath drops sharply down to a wide stretch of level white sand.

At this southern end of the beach, a row of makeshift cafes provides shade and sustenance for a predominantly Israeli crowd. Like Anjuna, Vagator is a relaxed, comparatively undeveloped resort that appeals, in the main, to budget travellers with time on their hands. Accommodation is limited, however, and visitors frequently find themselves travelling to and from Baga every day to find a suitable place to stay.